Eat like a local in Kuala Lumpur: tuck into a juicy Ramly burger or frog legs noodles
As the cultural, financial and economic centre of Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur – or KL, as locals affectionately know their capital – is a sultry place with a vibrant mix of people. I found the Malay, Chinese and Indian communities here particularly appealing, given the time I’ve spent within mostly Buddhist Bangkok.
Like the Thai capital, KL is a city with a reverence for ancient cultures, not only demonstrated in the many religious temples but in the cuisine, too, which ranges from street food staples to modern Malay and even three-star sushi.
First stop at night should be the neon-lit Jalan Alor, a long stretch of street lined with sloppy-noodle vendors. There is a huge variety of noodles on offer, including the famous hokkien mee (lard-fried noodles) and kare laksa (chicken curry noodle soup).
You’ll also find noodles with frog legs, and some stalls advertising live frogs in cages. If frogs seem too extreme, try the Ramly burger, a greasy beef patty enveloped in an egg, served with lashings of Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce. The unusual omelette-like burger has become a KL staple, brimming with Malaysian charm.
While street food remains popular, it is, unfortunately, not as common as it once was with chains and bricks-and-mortar buildings growing everywhere. For a slice of the authentic, make your way over to Pudu Wai Sek Kai, one of the last remaining hawker streets in KL. Order the Penang rojak – a seafood medley with sweet prawn paste – and if you’re still hungry, go for my absolute favourite, char kway teow – stir-fried flat noodles and cockles in pork fat. The legendary chee cheong fun – crépe rolls filled shrimp or beef – are also a must try.
On Jalan Alor, also known as Gluttons Road, you’ll find Wong Ah Wah which serves, according to locals, the country’s best barbecue chicken wings. To meet increasing demand, they recently added a second stove. There’s a minimum order of two wings, but at RM3.20 per piece (77 US cents), this is a delicious steal.
Gluttons Road is packed with numerous other dining options, all for bargain prices – including vendors churning out cheap wantan mee (yellow egg noodles with black sauce), ikan bakar (spicy barbecue fish), chicken rice, deep-fried yam and the national dessert, cendol (shaved ice with sugar noodles and condensed milk).
Take a trip to Kampung Baru and try nasi lemak, Malay-style coconut rice, fragrant with ginger. Visit Brickfield’s, known as Little India, for an authentic taste of southern India, and make time for Vishalatchi Food and Catering, a restaurant on the edges of Brickfield.
Venture to the river, opposite the Masjid Jamek Mosque, to Lebuh Ampang Road and the labyrinth of village-like lanes filled with authentic Indian fare. At Restoran Kader try the mutton masala and lamb varuval, served on a banana leaf.
For something more upscale, take a taxi out to KDU University College and Dewakan, a restaurant located within the Shah Alam City campus. Under chef Darren Teoh, Dewakan has grown into the country’s most sought-after booking, breaking into Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list this year at No 42.
The Dewakan menu is a geographical journey through the biodiverse layers of Malaysian habitats, with ingredients from the seas, farms, mountains, and jungles of this wide-ranging country.
Continuing the fine dining theme, Taka by Sushi Saito at the St. Regis is another outpost of Tokyo’s acclaimed three-Michelin-starred restaurant Sushi Saito, and Malaysia’s first restaurant opened by a three-Michelin starred chef. Hailed as “the best sushi restaurant in the world” by Joël Robuchon, it’s a place that will tip the financial scale, serving the likes of otoro (fatty tuna), shinko (baby sardine) and bafun uni gunkan (seaweed-wrapped uni).
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Whether Malay, Chinese or Indian, food in the Malaysian capital takes on a different level of deliciousness on the street, from hokkein mee to kare laksa and mutton masala