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St Fagans, the ‘living museum’ in Wales that inspired an Alexander McQueen collection

  • Sarah Burton took the Alexander McQueen design team on a research trip to the the open-air museum near Cardiff
  • Influences from carved wooden love-spoons to the court of a medieval prince appear in the brand’s autumn/winter 2020 collection

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Llys Llywelyn, at St Fagans National Museum of History, Wales. Photo: St Fagans National Museum of History

When I read about the inspiration for this season’s Alexander McQueen womens­wear collection in the show notes I did a double take. Creative director Sarah Burton has become known in the fashion industry for taking her design team on research trips around Britain and, ahead of autumn/winter 2020, she took them to St Fagans, on the outskirts of Cardiff, in Wales.

Thought to be named after a 2nd century saint and the site of a pitched battle during the English civil war, in 1648, these days St Fagans is an affluent village that’s home to a popular open-air, living museum. I grew up nearby and have visited often, so I was intrigued to see the McQueen team similarly captivated.

Having gone through a few name changes, it is officially now called St Fagans National Museum of History but is known by locals simply as St Fagans. Its main draw is a collection of more than 40 historical buildings, including cottages and churches, mills and tanneries, which have been meticulously transported from all over Wales and recreated in a bucolic setting.

These structures, as well as the galleries and workshops showcasing Welsh social history and craftsmanship, were the stimulus for Alexander McQueen’s autumn/winter collection.

Kennixton Farmhouse. Photo: St Fagans National Museum of History
Kennixton Farmhouse. Photo: St Fagans National Museum of History

Perhaps St Fagans was on Burton’s radar as it was named UK Art Fund Museum of the Year in 2019, beating the glitzy V&A Dundee to the prize. St Fagans was the vision of the late Welsh poet and academic Iorwerth Peate, who, in 1948, sought “not to create a museum which preserved the dead past under glass but one which uses the past to link up with the present”.

Gillian Rhys has contributed to the SCMP for a decade. She has been an editor at the BBC, LUXE City Guides and delicious magazine and has written about travel and lifestyle for the likes of the Robb Report, CNN.com, Australian Financial Review and the UK’s FT, The Sunday Times, The Guardian and the Evening Standard. She lives in London after several years in Hong Kong and Singapore.
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