Lucy Morgan
Lucy Morgan
Lucy is a food, wine and travel writer. A European native and former resident of North Africa, she is most at home in Asia.

Authentic Chinese food in Paris is hard to find, partly because it’s difficult to get work visas for Chinese chefs. But thanks to Michelin-starred dining and hip bistros, more Parisians are experiencing Chinese cuisine at its very best.

It’s not all about the restaurants – a project to celebrate the people who work, shop and live in London’s Chinatown has gone live on Instagram with the hashtag #HumansOfChinatownLondon.

When photographer John Offenbach heard there were Jews living in Henan province, he ‘had to visit’ them to shoot portraits for his show JEW. They gave him a warm welcome and showed him their Jewish heritage.

Last year the UK launched more vegan products than anywhere else in the world, and restaurants are responding to this demand. We look at some of the plant-based eating options in London, including many based on Chinese food.


Cantonese roast meats, known as siu mei, are gaining popularity in the British capital, spreading from Chinatown. We talk to restaurateurs and roasting masters about the complex techniques.

Hezret-Arslan Berdiev learned to make good food out of very little as a teenage army cook in Central Asia, and put that skill to good use when Russia halted EU food imports. At Birch he creates complex, unique taste profiles.

Steamed fish rice wrapped in newspaper, century egg in an egg cup – Marcella Chan’s images exploring British-Chinese dual identity will be shown at an exhibition at China Exchange in London.

Pub pop-ups, where pubs invite chefs to cook for short stints in their kitchens, are taking off in Britain’s capital, with Asian food proving particularly popular among the city’s boozers – and the chefs getting a nice career boost.

Taiwanese filled steamed buns, meaty toasted sandwiches, stewed pig’s ears and chicken feet from Xian, and an opulent take on the Hong Kong egg waffle – young entrepreneurs are selling humble snacks in upscale neighbourhood premises.

At Etles in Walthamstow and Dilara in Finsbury Park, the Uygur owners offer dishes that give Londoners insight into their traditions, culture and religion.

Chef Steven Lee, of Hakkaland restaurant in London, combines Chinese cooking techniques and flavours with Indian ingredients to create his recipes, despite having never been to China. South Asians in Britain love it.

The Taiwanese restaurant chain’s renowned xiaolongbao – steamed pork soup dumplings – can now be had in trendy Covent Garden. Its London outpost has a new twist – a cocktail bar.

At Ikoyi, Princeton-educated Jeremy Chan and his friend, LSE graduate Iré Hassan-Odukale, combine ingredients and flavours from West Africa with Chan’s culinary skills and ideas to come up with something unique.

Chef Manish Mehrotra uses traditional spice blends with international ingredients and innovative methods at his understated, award-winning restaurants in London, New York and Delhi.

Some of the late Chinese leader’s favourite dishes are on the menu at Zhang Xiao Zhong’s Shoreditch restaurant The Sichuan, where he mixes traditional fiery delights with milder ones.

After working in his parents’ Chinese restaurant as a child, the last thing Andrew Wong wanted to do was become a cook. He talks about how he ended up opening A. Wong, which has earned a star from the Michelin Guide.

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